How to choose a snowboard

The best way to choose a snowboard is to describe your riding before you look at any boards: how confident are you today, and what terrain do you ride most days? Burton’s snowboard buying guide starts in the same place, calling an honest look at your experience level “a good starting point,” because manufacturers tailor boards to different abilities.

• Beginners usually benefit from a forgiving board that turns easily at low speed and is less likely to catch an edge. Brands often label these as beginner or progression boards.
• Improving riders who link turns on most groomed runs can look for a board that holds an edge more firmly and stays stable as speed builds.
• Experienced riders tend to choose for a specific job: park, powder, carving or backcountry.

Buy for the rider you are this season, with a little room to progress, not for the rider you hope to be in a few years. A board built for advanced riders can make learning harder, not faster. If you are still learning to turn, a few lessons on rental gear may teach you more about what you like than any product page.

A true twin is the same from nose to tail, so it rides the same in both directions. That suits park riding and anyone who spends time riding switch (with the other foot forward). A directional board is built to ride mainly one way, often with a longer or more upturned nose and a stance set back toward the tail, which can help in powder and at speed. Many boards sit in between as a directional twin, and brands also make asymmetrical and volume-shifted shapes, so read how the maker describes the shape and who it is for.

How to find the front of a snowboard

On a directional board, the nose is usually the longer, more upturned end, and the stance inserts sit closer to the tail. On a true twin, either end can be the front; the front simply becomes whichever end your lead foot faces. If you don’t yet know your lead foot, our regular or goofy test takes a minute.

Lay a board on the floor and look at it from the side. The curve you see is its profile. Burton’s guide to camber, rocker and flat describes the main types:

• Camber: the middle arches up between your feet. It gives pop and precise edge grip, which many experienced riders like for carving, but it is less forgiving of mistakes.
• Rocker: the middle dips and the nose and tail lift. It feels loose, turns easily and floats in soft snow, but holds less firmly on hard-packed snow.
• Flat: no curve between the feet. It feels stable and predictable.
• Hybrid: a mix, such as rocker between the feet with camber under them, aiming to combine easy turning with better edge hold.

If you are learning, a flat, rocker or hybrid profile is often easier to get along with than full camber. Treat that as a starting point rather than a rule, because flex and shape change how any profile rides.

Flex describes how easily the board bends, both along its length and across its width (torsional flex). Brands rate it on their own scales, so compare flex ratings within one brand rather than across brands.

• Softer boards turn easily and forgive mistakes at low speed, which suits beginners, lighter riders and playful park riding.
• Medium flex is a common all-mountain choice.
• Stiffer boards stay stable at speed and hold an edge in hard turns, which is why freeride boards are often stiffer, but they demand more precise technique.

Weight changes how flex feels. According to Burton’s buying guide, a board can feel softer than intended under a rider above its suggested weight, and stiffer under a lighter one, which is another reason to stay inside the size chart.

Every model has its own recommended weight range for each length, and those ranges differ between models, even from the same brand. Our guide to finding your board length and width explains how to read a size chart and why weight matters more than height.

Width matters as much as length. Burton’s buying guide treats waist width as the main clue to which boot and binding sizes suit a board. Where boots overhang too far, your toes or heels can drag in turns. Make sure your boots fit first with our boot fit guide, then check the model’s boot-size guidance. Buying for a child? Kids’ boards follow their own charts, covered in sizing boards for young riders.

Shop, online or both

Burton’s buying guide suggests visiting a reliable local snowboard shop at some point in the process, and recommends standing on a few different boards in store “to get a feel for the sizes that feel right to you,” especially for a first board. It also notes that few physical shops can match the selection of an online store. Many riders do both: get advice and a feel in the shop, then compare models.

Demo before you buy

Some shops and resorts run demo days or rent higher-end “demo” boards, which let you ride a model before buying. Availability and terms vary, so ask local shops and check your resort’s website. Even one run on a board tells you more than a spec sheet.

New or used

A new board has a known history and usually a manufacturer’s warranty; check the terms. A well-checked second-hand board can be good value, especially for a first board or a child who will outgrow it. Our second-hand board checklist covers what to inspect before you pay.

Before you mount bindings

Keep the receipt and check the returns policy first. Burton’s setup guide warns that once bindings are screwed on, most shops won’t take the board back, even if it has never touched snow. Check too that your bindings suit the board’s mounting pattern; see binding size and compatibility.

Choosing a board doesn’t end at the checkout. A few related decisions come up sooner or later:

• Stomp pad and leash: a traction pad helps your free foot when you skate or get off a lift, and some resorts expect a leash. Here’s how to fit a stomp pad and use a leash.
• A second board: once you keep hitting the same limit, such as sinking in powder, a complementary board can help. Read about putting together a small quiver before you buy one.
• Old boards: when a board no longer suits you, repair it, pass it on or sell it. Our guide to selling, donating and recycling old gear explains the options.

1. Ability and terrain: the product description says the board suits your level and where you ride.
2. Shape: twin for riding both ways, directional for mostly one way, or something in between.
3. Profile and flex: forgiving enough for your current skills.
4. Length: your weight falls within the recommended range for that length on the model’s own chart.
5. Width: suits your boot size, according to the manufacturer.
6. Mounting system: your bindings are compatible with the board’s inserts or channel.
7. Boots first: comfortable, properly fitted boots matter more than any board spec.
8. Budget: leave money for bindings, boots, a helmet and basic care.