How to set up snowboard bindings

Setting up snowboard bindings, or putting a snowboard together for the first time, comes down to five steps:

1. Check compatibility: the bindings must suit your board’s insert pattern or channel, and your boots must fall inside the binding’s size range.
2. Sort left from right: each binding has an inside and an outside, and the front binding goes toward the nose on your lead-foot side.
3. Choose a starting position: use the board’s reference stance for width and a sensible starting angle.
4. Mount by hand: start every screw with your fingers, then tighten evenly in a cross pattern with a hand screwdriver.
5. Check and fine-tune: make sure your boots sit centered, then adjust straps and highbacks.

This page covers mounting and removing the hardware. Once the bindings are on, our separate guide to adjusting angles, width, straps and forward lean walks through the fine-tuning.

Burton’s binding mounting guide describes the main mounting systems you will find on boards today and on older second-hand boards:

Burton’s own disc bindings use a Re:Flex disc that works with several patterns, while its EST bindings are designed specifically for The Channel. Burton also notes that EST hardware comes in M5 and M6 versions to suit older and newer Channel boards, so check which one your board needs.

Two more checks before mounting:

• Boot size: your boots need to fall within the binding’s size range on the manufacturer’s chart. See our guide to sizing bindings to your boots.
• Step-in systems: step-in bindings only work with matching boots. Burton’s size charts state that Step On bindings are “ONLY compatible with Step On boots.”

If anything does not line up, stop and check with the manufacturer or a shop. Forcing mismatched parts together can damage the inserts.

Bindings are made in left and right versions, and it is easy to mount one backward. A few clues help:

• Ladder straps go on the outside. Burton’s mounting guide says the ladder strap “should always be oriented to the outside of your boot.”
• Ratchets face the ends of the board. Union’s installation guide reminds riders to make sure the ratchets face the tip and tail: “Don’t put your bindings on backwards.”
• Step On levers go on the outside. Burton says to position Step On bindings so the release levers sit on the outside of your boots.

Next, decide which end is the front. A regular rider leads with the left foot, so the left binding goes toward the nose. A goofy rider leads with the right foot, so the right binding goes toward the nose. Our stance guide has quick tests if you are not sure which you are.

Use the screws, washers and discs that came with your bindings, or official replacements for that model. Burton’s guide warns: “Only use the hardware that was included with your bindings.” Screws that are the wrong length or thread can damage the inserts or push through into the board.

• The correct disc and screws for your board’s pattern.
• A hand screwdriver that fits the screw heads. Burton says a #3 Phillips works for most setups, and Union’s guide uses the same size. Check your manual.
• The binding and board manuals. Most brands publish them online, such as Burton’s product manuals page.
• A tape measure and a pencil or painter’s tape to mark positions.

Do not use a power drill or impact driver. Burton’s mounting guide says: “Never use power tools to tighten your binding hardware.” There is no single correct screw torque for every binding and board, so follow your manual. If you would rather not do it yourself, a shop can mount your bindings.

Once the bindings are secure, five settings decide how they feel. Each one is covered step by step in our guide to dialing in mounted bindings.

• Stance width: measured center to center between the bindings. Burton and Union both suggest starting slightly wider than shoulder width.
• Angles: how far each binding turns toward the nose or tail. Burton’s stance guide calls a forward front foot with a straight-across back foot (+/0) its recommended setting for beginners.
• Boot centering: even toe and heel overhang so neither drags in turns.
• Straps: centered over the boot with some adjustment left.
• Highback and forward lean: Burton’s setup guide recommends that most beginners start with zero forward lean.

Getting in and out of your bindings on the hill is a separate skill, covered in how to strap in and ride away.

Taking bindings off a snowboard

1. Undo the mounting screws with a hand screwdriver and keep all hardware together in a labeled bag.
2. Check the inserts or channel for damage, rust or inserts that spin. If an insert turns or will not hold a screw, stop and ask a technician. See topsheet and edge repairs.

Changing to different bindings or a different board

When you change bindings, use the hardware that came with the new pair and follow its manual. When you move bindings to another board, check that board’s mounting pattern first; it may need a different disc or hardware. Riders who swap one pair of bindings between boards should remount and recheck them each time, as our guide to owning more than one board explains.

Keep the receipt handy if the board is new. Burton’s setup guide notes that most retailers will not accept a snowboard for return once bindings have been mounted, even if it was never ridden.

• Every screw is present, snug and none are stripped.
• The ladder straps sit on the outside of each boot and the ratchets face the tip and tail.
• Your lead foot’s binding is at the nose end.
• Boots are centered with no excessive toe or heel overhang.
• Straps and ratchets close securely and release easily.
• You have a small tool with you to recheck hardware after the first few runs.

If anything about the setup feels wrong, a snowboard shop can check it, and an instructor can suggest stance changes once they have seen you ride.